0400 31 August 2012
RV Aquila
66 36.576 N
168 18.670 W

Whipped to a frenzy by an arctic gale, the icy black waters of the Chukchi Sea have once again made a point to remind us how small and insignificant our steel bubble really is. The last 24 hours have seen sustained winds at 40kts with gusts over 50 and swells climbing to 22 feet. As dawn breaks over an angry sea, it seems the worst has passed and the winds have slacked off some. By an incredible stroke of luck, the wind came up just as we finished our last mooring station off Barrow and got underway to Nome. Continuing the lucky streak, our course lands the swells straight on the stern, the best possible direction for a smooth ride. While it has been relatively smooth, the ride has been anything but relaxing. As each swell hits the stern, it lifts the stern until the bow is pointing down at what seems like 20 degrees. Far enough down that when one looks straight ahead from the wheelhouse, the swell ahead of us is at or above eye level. Each swell pushes on the stern with the force of
an avalanche, giving us a full two knot increase in speed and forcing the autopilot and rudder to work overtime to keep the sea from pushing the stern to the side and putting us broadside to the next wave. As the swell rolls forward from the stern, it creates an effect much like a teeter-totter with a teeter that constantly rolls from end to end. When the peak of the wave is about 40 feet forward of the stern, the water drops out from beneath the screws leaving our twin 80-inch stainless propellers thrashing at a frothy mix of water and air. This cavitation is probably the most uncomfortable thing about the current sea state because it creates a vibration like an earthquake that is felt and heard throughout the entire vessel. With the screws part of the way out of the water, the engines jump in RPM, coming out of sync and adding more vibrations. Then the stern plunges back into the water and the endless cycle starts anew.


0900 1 September 2012
R/V Aquila
Port of Nome

How quickly things change up here. In the matter of a few hours, the winds can change by 40 or 50 knots and the seas can climb or drop by 15 feet or more. Yesterday morning we were watching swells towering over the bridge, by noon we had rounded Cape Prince of Whales and the swells had dropped to six foot rollers. We got secured to the pier in Nome by 2200 last night, and this morning we awoke tied to the pier, the calmest it has been in two weeks. We are just about to depart for Dutch Harbor and our last few mooring sites. As of right now, we are scheduled to be in Dutch by the 5th.
All have high hopes of finding more whales these last few days, though by now everyone is getting a little worn out. Onward and Upward!!